Dasha Tsapenko, Ruslana Goncharuk, Marjo Van Schaik

Growing Gunya

Exhibition: Totemic Apparel for this Winter

17 Dec 2022
5 Mar 2023

Gunya is a Ukrainian traditional wool coat, originally worn by Hutsul shepherds in the Carpathian mountains. Providing physical protection from severe weather and animals, throughout the years it has carried a deep symbolic meaning, serving as an amulet for its owners. Using the classic shepherd’s coat as a template, we told stories of local materials, natural components and living organisms. The use of different cellulose and protein based materials in combination with natural dyeing techniques showed the ample variety of outcomes and possibilities.


Growing Gunya.5 -

Dasha Tsapenko

Dasha Tsapenko  is a bio-designer, who works with elements of art, fashion and material research. She investigates alternative production processes in (textile) design and is inspired by symbiotic relationships in nature. Dasha collaborates with various non-human species like fungi and (edible) plants. These collaborations result in grown garments, tapestries and textile pieces. Dasha does research on mycelium at the University of Utrecht and coaches at Design Academy Eindhoven. Her works were shown among others at Floriade (Almere, 2022), Castellum Hoge Woerd (Utrecht, 2022), MU Hybrid Art House (Eindhoven, 2020)  Radialsystem (Berlin, 2019), Haus der Kulturen der Welt (Berlin, 2019), Dutch Design Week (Eindhoven,  2017, 2018, 2019, 2022).

Ruslana Goncharuk 

Ruslana Goncharuk was born in Yavoriv, a village in western Ukraine, known for its weaving traditions, passed on from generation to generation. Ruslana learned this craft from her grandmother and mother in the early age. In the last years her practice has focused on researching native Ukrainian symbols, patterns and (weaving) techniques and applying them in traditional and contemporary garments that she creates. Ruslana closely collaborates with theaters, creating costumes for plays. (“Gutsulka Ksenya” for Ivano-Frankivsk Drama Theatre). In the past years she received several awards on preserving the ancient craft and Hutsul traditions.

Marjo Van Schaik

After 20 years, Marjo van Schaik resumed her work as a designer and maker of fabrics and clothes. She was educated at the Modeacademie Bijenveld in Amsterdam in the 1980s and dropped out partly because of increasing commercialisation in the fashion industry. Marjo was intendant of international cultural projects such as Europe by People in Amsterdam and Brussels (2016) and designer of Downside up in Soledar in Ukraine (2021). Now she works with wool and other natural materials such as hemp and vegetable dyes to create new concepts. The wool she works with comes from Dutch sheep, which is considered waste. With her work, she wants to show the strength, softness and beauty of this ‘waste’.


17-12-2022 Growing Gunya - Gunya is een traditionele wollen jas uit Oekraïne die oorspronkelijk gedragen werd door Hutsul herders in de Karpaten. Door de jaren heen heeft de jas een diepe symbolische betekenis gekregen, waarbij de jas als amulet dient voor de eigenaren. Met de klassieke herdersjas als sjabloon, vertelt 'Growing Gunya' verhalen over lokale materialen, natuurlijke componenten en levende organismen. Het gebruik van verschillende materialen op basis van cellulose en proteïne in combinatie met natuurlijke…

Exhibited Garments


This exhibition was open from the 16th of December, 2022 to the 5th of March, 2023